Safety Day 2013 - Rough Cutting Lumber Safely

Learn the process I use to rough crosscut and rip my lumber.

Build your own (Small) Marking Gauge

Learn how I built another, smaller, marking guage.

Multi Slot Mortiser / Horizontal Router

Check out my Slot Mortiser based on the plans from

Bandsaw Dust Collection Upgrade

Awesome upgrade to dust collection on a bandsaw

Build Your Own Marking Gauge

Learn how to build your own marking gauges - based on a Fine Woodworking Article by Matt Kenney

Lie Nielsen Rabbet Block Plane - 60 1/2R with Nickers

Quick overview/review of the Lie Nielsen Rabbeting Block Plane - a versatile gem.

Review - Charles Neals Pre-Color Conditioner

Building a Holtzapfel Inspired Workbench

Check out my 11 part video series on building a Holtzapfel Inspired Workbench

Wednesday, July 2, 2014

New Shop / The future of "The Dusty Developer"

New Shop Coming Soon!

As you may have just seen on Twitter, I wrote that I'm currently without a shop and therefore haven't posted anything for a while.  However, that will all change around the end of August as we close on our new house and I get a dedicated shop space instead of sharing the two car garage.  The new space will be small as the house has a two car garage and a separate one car garage - I'll be using the one car garage.

I'm sure everyone would agree that taking over the two car garage would be ideal but if I do that it will never be dedicated space much like the last house.  It will become part of the traffic pattern for the house and inevitably lawn equipment, gardening junk, trash cans etc. will make its way into the shop.  The only way to avoid that would be to store all that in the single car garage.  Seems silly to have 3 garage bays and still have to park outside.

Since I really want "my own" space I'm planning on taking over the single car garage which is about 11' x 20.5' and has approximately 14 foot ceilings (I need to take some measurements).   There is however room to expand the single into a double should this just become unworkable but I really do think it will be fine - I know many of you are in small shops.  Additionally, while I never really gave a shop tour, I tried my best to only use half of our garage in the last house simply so I could feel like it was dedicated to me.

I've started trying to do some virtual layout with SketchUp and so far it seems like it will work just fine.  I plan to make at least one flip top work station for my planner and Rigid sander but I may eventually get a Planner/Jointer combo machine.  I'm also thinking of upgrading my bag style dust collector to a cyclone even though that's a lot of power for a small space.  I may try to put the bag dust collector (Delta 850) up on a shelf where the pipe will run and try to add a barrel collector under it but I'm not sure.  I know a lot of people say the 850 is very "hot rod-able" because it has a 6" intake so I may run the pipe the way I would have for the cyclone and try it out before I get a cyclone.

I also plan on storing less used machines/tools in the other garage so they are out of the way.

Working On Shop Layout

So I have a couple question for you!

1) Are any of you in a small shop like this and make it work?
2) Do you have any good ideas for utilizing the high walls?
3) Is a 2.5HP or larger cyclone (Tempest or ClearVue) complete overkill for a 220 sq ft shop or can a 1200 CFM dust collector handle the piping? I do plan on using 6" main line(s).
4) What do you think of the name "The Dusty Developer".  At first I thought it was kinda neat since my blog was supposed to be about both woodworking and software development.  The software development part never really went anywhere and I really don't care to bother with it anymore.  I'm thinking about doing a rename and dropping that part of the blog.  I think the hardest part will be re-branding and renaming my YouTube! Channel.  That is where nearly all my traffic and the little amount of ad-revenue comes from so I really don't want to mess that part up.

If you have any thoughts, please leave me a comment or send me an email.  I'd love to hear from you.


Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Woodworking Safety Day 2013 - Rough Cutting Lumber Safely

May 1, 2013 is Safety Day in the woodworking world thanks to the efforts of Marc at the .  Every year he asks his fellow woodworkers to contribute a blog post and/or video to the effort and help make woodworking both safer and more enjoyable for all involved.  This is my contribution - I hope you find it useful and perhaps a safer way to work.

In my very first video and blog I ever posted - part 1 of my 11 part series on building a workbench, I showed you how I cut up the rough lumber using a circular saw.  Well, I nearly lost a finger - it wasn't really that close but this was mainly do to a poor cutting setup/clamping and rough and twisted wood. 

This scare, which you'll see again in the video at the end of the post, pushed me toward another approach to making rough crosscuts AND rough ripping. 

I no longer crosscut with my circular saw, joint, plane and then rip on my table saw.  Instead, I use my jigsaw and my bandsaw and rough cut all the wood in its rough state.  I find this to be MUCH safer, quieter, less dusty and allows for better use of wood.  I like to make these cuts with a 4" long 6 to 8 tooth per inch blade with a lot of set. I do not know the model number on Bosch blade but find the most aggresive blade you can so the cutting goes fast.  This longer blade will also cut through 8/4 and larger stock with ease.

After laying out the cuts I want to make, typically in caulk, I start by making crosscuts with the (Bosch) jigsaw.  I will clamp the wood to my bench or assembly table and support the offcut if its large enough.  Because of the controllable cut with the jigsaw, you can get away with just holding the offcut if its small enough but I recommend using a support whenever you can, especially on large or heavy pieces.

Once all the crosscutting is done, I take the parts to the bandsaw and rip out the parts. There is no need for the fence and your really don't want to use it anyway since none of the edges are jointed straight.  I really like my Woodslicer 3/4 (teeth per inch) Skip Tooth blade but anything in the 3 or 4 tooth per inch range should work great.


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